This post will show you how to build a crate to hold 8 half-gallon mason jars.

I had a client ask for a custom crate to hold her half gallon mason jars of raw milk. The crate will be going back and forth between the barn and her trunk, and needs to be able to hold a lot of weight. She asked for dividers so the jars don’t clink around and hit each other during travel.

Get excited folks, because I used CAD for this and you don’t have to suffer through another one of my drawings, lol.

This is a mock up of the final product. I’ll use 3/4″ plywood for the sides and the base. The dividers will be 1/2″ plywood, with slots to lock them together. I’m using plywood because it is sturdy and stable, and will hold up over time.

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For this build I will be using:

3/4″ plywood

1/2″ plywood

Pocket hole jig and screws

Wood glue

Router

Track saw

My favorite dust mask

Clamps, and clamps

Finish screws

Trim Router

Roundover bit

I started out by cutting out the end panels using the dimensions on the plan, and a track saw.

Did you know that a pool vacuum hose fits perfectly on a makita track saw? Conveniently found this in my garage, and it conveniently fit perfectly, ha!

Cut out the bottom panel as well, since it will be made with the same 3/4″ plywood.

Using 1/2″ plywood, cut the 2 side panels, and center dividers.

Next, I marked and cut notches in the center dividers. The long divider will have three notches, and each cross piece will have one. I used my scroll saw to cut these pieces, but a jigsaw, table saw, or router would also do the trick.

Now I turned my attention to the end pieces. I wanted an arched handle, both for aesthetics and because hitting a sharp corner of plywood is an unpleasant experience. I used an old plate to draw the curve on the side. When making any sort of symmetrical pattern like this, measure to make sure the lines begin at the same point. The left side started 5″ from the top, so the right also starts 5″ from the top of the board.

Next, I marked measurements for the handle. The handle is generous to account for winter gloves.

I cut out the arch and the interior of the handle using my scroll saw. A jig saw or band saw would work well if you don’t have a scroll saw.

The easiest way to cut the handle out is to drill holes in each corner, and play connect the dots with a jig saw.

Before assembly, I used a trim router and a roundover bit to soften the edges of the handles, and the arched sides. This step is optional and purely for the comfort of the person carrying the crate. If you don’t own a router, use sand paper to knock down the edges.

I drilled pocket holes in the bottom of the base where it will connect with the handle end pieces. I drilled 7 pocket holes, which is definitely overkill. I’ve been an overachiever my whole life, and I can’t stop now lol.

When building anything that will be holding a load, it’s important that the fasteners are perpendicular to the force of the load. Fastening parallel to the load will put constant pressure on those screws, and over time they will loosen.

With all the pieces cut, we are ready to assemble. I used both 36″ bar clamps and 90 degree clamps to hold my ends and bottom pieces together.

I used a scrap piece of 1/2″ plywood to leave a space for the side of the crate during assembly.

Once the end pieces were attached, I used wood glue, clamps, and finish screws to install the dividers and side pieces. I predrilled pilot holes using a countersink bit, which gives the screwhead room to sit just below the plywood. This is minimal effort for a more polished look. If you don’t own a countersink bit set, I definitely recommend this small upgrade!

That’s all there is to it! This plan could be modified to fit other mason jars, or leave out the center dividers and use it as a carry-all, trunk bin, toy organizer, etc.

Happy building, friends!