This post will teach you how to construct your own rolling cabinet, customized to fit your space!
Hi friends, this is as real as it gets….my workbench of shame…..screeeeech screeeech screeeech screeeeeech (can you hear the horror movie music?!)
It doesn’t always look like this. In fact, 99% of the time it doesn’t look like this. But, we’re doing some renovations in another part of our house, and the stuff from the house is taking up half of the garage. Since most of the tools I use live on that half of the garage, they’re homeless. And in a pile.
This problem needs a solution!
After endlessly searching build plans online for rolling shop carts, and finding none that fit my needs, I designed my own. My cabinet will have 4 drawers, 3 large and 1 small, and will be on caster wheels so it can move around the garage. The top will be large enough to hold my miter saw, and the drawers will hold the tools and accessories I use frequently.
The great thing about this cabinet is it can be used for virtually anything- a 3D printer in an office, a laundry room cart, a kitchen workspace with storage, a dresser, linen storage, etc. The dimensions and drawers can be fully customized to fit any space.
There are many builders who use fancy CAD programs for this – I have used CAD software before but I prefer a pencil and paper! Go ahead to use what you feel comfortable with. I prefer the flexibility of being able to modify my design as I go.
This cabinet will hold my miter saw, and the cutting surface of the miter saw (table) will be level with my workbench. This provides a space to support long boards while cutting them.
This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission, at no cost to you, if you purchase through these links.
For part 1 of this build I am using:
3/4″ plywood (Purebond Birch)
Heavy duty caster wheels, at least 2 with brakes (similar)
Nail gun (optional)
Long straight edge to mark plywood
The back of the cabinet will sit in between the side panels. To determine the width of the whole cabinet make sure to include the thickness of the plywood on each side panel.
Back panel width + 1.5″ (each side is 3/4″ thick) = cabinet width.
If you prefer to work backwards:
Cabinet width – 1.5″ = back panel width
Next you’ll need your cabinet height. Mine will be flush with my workbench, which will be my starting height. I’ll need to account for the wheel height, the miter saw table height, and the top and bottom piece of the cabinet to reach the final height dimensions.
Desired height – (wheel height + miter saw table height + 1.5″) = height of cabinet side/back panel
After determining your dimensions, cut your plywood for the sides and back of your cabinet. The sides and back panel will be similar in size. Label the pieces to avoid confusion during assembly.
After cutting both sides and back panel, the next step is to add pocket screws to the inside of the BACK panel.
*** If you do not have a nail gun, drill more pocket holes along the bottom of the sides and back to attach the base of the cabinet. Drill those now, before assembling. ***
I put 4 pocket holes along each side, and attached the side pieces to the back using 1.5″ kreg screws. The side pieces will sit on the outside of the back panel, ends lined up and flush. You may need another set of hands to get these lined up well and provide counter pressure while screws are going in. Clamping the back panel to a work surface to hold it in place will also provide more stability.
Hey, hey, hey, it’s starting to look like something!
Next up, measure for the base of the cabinet from one side to the other (on the outside edge of the plywood – your cabinet will sit on top of the base), and then from front to back. There isn’t a front yet, and since this will be drawers, the base doesn’t need to extend beyond the edge of the side panel.
Cut out the base to the correct dimensions.
If using a nail gun, flip the assembled sides and back upside down so the base is sitting on top, line up all the edges, and nail the base in place.
If you don’t have a nail gun, you can use pocket holes and screws along the bottom of your cabinet’s sides and back to attach the base. I recommend leaving the cabinet in an upright position to attach the base, using the weight of the plywood to anchor the build while driving screws. Be sure to check that the sides and back remain flush with the side of the base while attaching.
The final step in part 1 is to put wheels on the bottom. I used two locking heavy duty 4″ wheels in the front, and two 4″ heavy duty swivel wheels in the back. Position the front wheels so the locking mechanism is accessible. The back wheels I set further in so they are not visible.
Stay tuned for part 2. I will be adding 4 custom drawers, drawer fronts, pulls, and a top. Happy building, friends!
2 thoughts on “How to build a workshop rolling cabinet with drawers, part 1”
Comments are closed.