This post will teach you how to measure, build, and install drawers for a custom rolling cabinet.
We’re working our way to an organized new year over here at Birdsong Woodworking! In part 1 I showed how to build a basic rolling cabinet and customize it to any dimensions. Now, let’s add some drawers and get closer to finishing this build!
“Part 2” will be broken into several steps:
- Install drawer slides
- Build drawers
- Install drawers
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For this build I will be using:
1/2″ birch plywood (I’m using a 4×8′ sheet)
20″ full extension drawer slides, 4 packs
Kreg mini jig and panhead screws
Makita track saw and guide rail
Nail gun or finishing nails and hammer
Let me preface this post by saying there are approximately 395 ways to build a drawer, install a drawer, jigs for drawers, etc. etc. etc. This tutorial is a simple and effective way that does not require a garage full of tools.
The drawers I’m building will use pocket hole joinery for the sides, front, and back, and overlay drawer fronts. The bottom will be nailed on. Given that these drawers will be holding my tools and will live in the garage, they don’t need to be fancy. However, they do need to be sturdy and hold a lot of weight.
- Install drawer slides
Before building the drawers, I installed the drawer slides. To do this, I find it easiest (if possible) to lay the cabinet on it’s side. I used a scrap 1x as a spacer between the bottom of the drawer slide and the cabinet base for the lowest drawer slide. I aligned the front section of the drawer slide (where the drawer attaches) flush with the front of the cabinet.
In this tutorial I am making overlay drawer fronts. This means the drawer front will cover the entire cabinet face, and only the drawer front will be visible. Placement of the drawer slides is dependent on whether the drawers will be inset or overlay.
Three of my drawers will be just over 6″ tall, so I measured 7″ between each drawer slide. The top drawer will be about 3″ tall, perfect for smaller items like screws, drill bits, and small jigs. Keep in mind the size of the base of the drawer (1/2″ or 3/4″), if nailing it to the bottom. This will add some height to the drawer, and will need to be accounted for when spacing the drawer slides.
Repeat this process on the the other side, flipping the cabinet over if possible. The drawer slides should be parallel with each other when finished.
2. Build drawers
The formula I will be using to calculate my drawer size can be customized for any space and any size opening using full extension drawer slides. If your build is using a different drawer slide, simply insert the width of those instead of 1″.
To calculate the drawer dimensions, first start with the width of the cabinet (outside edge to outside edge). Subtract the width of the wood on the cabinet sides (3/4″ x 2 in this case), and 1″ total for the drawer slides (each slide is 1/2″). This will give you the total width of the drawer.
Total drawer width = width of cabinet (outside edge to outside edge) – width of wood – 1″ (drawer slide width)
However, drawers are constructed with the front and back panel nestled between the sides. When the drawer is pulled on repeatedly, the screws or joinery holding the front and sides together are perpendicular to that force. The drawer box will not come apart over time because of repeated pulling.
To find the width of the front and back drawer panel, subtract the width of the wood you’re using from the total drawer width. I’m using 1/2″ plywood, so I will subtract another 1″ from my total drawer width. If using 3/4″ wood, subtract 1.5″. The drawer should fit just between the drawer slides using this formula.
Front/back panel width = total drawer width – (side panel width x2)
The length of the drawer is equal to the length of the drawer slide. If using 20″ drawer slides, make the side panels 20″ so the back of the drawer coincides with the full extension of the drawer.
The base of the drawer will be the same as the total width and length of the drawer. Again, this is only one way to build a simple drawer. There are a million other ways to add a drawer base, and those ways will not use this formula.
Next, cut out the wood for the drawers.
My drawers will be 6″ high for the lower three, and 3″ for the top drawer. I ripped several 8′ long strips 6″ wide, and also 3″ wide using a track saw. After calculating the dimensions of my drawers, I cut them down on the miter saw. Drawers can be finicky – it is best to use a stop block or cut 2 pieces of wood at the same time to get the exact same dimensions. I cut my front/back together, and then both side pieces together.
I added 2 pocket holes to both ends of the front and back panel using a mini kreg jig. The mini kreg jig does a great job making smaller holes in smaller sized lumber. I’m using 1/2″ plywood for these drawers, so a mini pocket hole is a better fit. When using a mini jig, make sure to use panhead kreg screws.
Each front and back piece should have at least 4 total pocket holes – 2 on each end. It doesn’t hurt to add a third, but isn’t necessary.
The drawer pieces should now look like this. The pocket holes will sit on the front and back side of the drawer so they are not visible after construction.
I assembled the drawer, using a speed square and clamps to keep the panels flush with each other.
3. Install drawers
Once I have a completed drawer frame (no base) I like to dry fit it in between my drawer slides. Now is the time to adjust things, before the base is attached.
After a successful dry fit. I used a 16 gauge finish nail gun to attach the base. If you don’t have a nail gun, a hammer and 1.5″ finishing nails will also do the job.
After the base is attached, I put the drawer back in, using a 1x piece of scrap wood underneath the drawer box on either side to hold the drawer in place, and give consistent spacing. I slowly pulled the drawer out, making sure it was still supported and level, and put the first 2 screws in on either side. To put the last screw in, I took the drawer out of the slide using the black release levers on the drawer slide, and rested the drawer on it’s side.
Once the slide is screwed on, put the drawer back into the cabinet. Verify the drawer slides as it should, then repeat this same process with the other drawers.*
That’s it – drawer boxes are done! Part 3 will cover drawer fronts and pulls, and the supports and top for the cabinet.
*Where is a picture of all the drawers in place and finished, you’re asking? 2.5 are done, ha. And now it’s -20 at my house and too cold to do anything……I will update this post with pictures when my drawer boxes are all done!