How to make a DIY plant propagation station

This post will teach you how to make your own plant propagation tube holder, so you can easily multiply your plants.

I love having something alive and green on my window sill, that needs minimal care. VERY minimal care. Did you know that plants will stay alive in water tubes? Ask me how I know, haha. This simple build has brought a lot of happiness to my days, and my plants are thriving!

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For this build I am using:

1×3 boards – I used alder and maple

Face mask – this is my favorite. Don’t breath in all that dust!

Forstner bit – size will depend on the test tube diameter

Drill

Clamps

Miter saw (similar)

Nail gun – or nails and a hammer

Painters tape

Wood filler

Wood conditioner (similar)

Test tubes – these are the closest I can find to the tubes I used but slightly smaller in diameter. Mine were purchased at a local craft store.

Let me preface this whole tutorial with the caveat that the size tubes used will affect the forstner bit size needed. My tubes are about 1.2″ in diameter so I’m using a 1.25″ forstner bit. There are many tubes online that are just under 1″, so a 1″ forstner bit would be needed in that case. The distance between the drilled holes and final look of the build may change depending on the tube size.

I started this build by cutting down a section of my 1×3 to a manageable length – I cut mine to 12″ because I will have 4 tubes. Adjust depending on how many tubes you want to use, longer if more, smaller if less . Find the center of the board and make a line along the face of the board to mark it. A 1×3 is 2.5″ wide, so center will be at 1.25″. (Always measure the board first – there can be slight variations)

Mark 1″ from one end of the board and place it perpendicular to the middle line. You can choose to go larger than an inch – this is the distance from the end of the board to the first tube – but definitely do not go smaller if the boards are 3/4″ thick.

From this line, measure 3/4″ and place a mark perpendicular to the center line. This will be the center of the first hole. From that point, measure 2″ and make another mark, that will be the next hole center. Continue measuring 2″ intervals between hole centers. My build has 4 tubes total, so I made a total of 4 center hole marks. Measure 3/4″ from the last center hole, and then 1″ from that point. That last line will be where to cut the board with the miter saw.

I made a template for this project using 1/4″ plywood because I am making several of these.

After marking the 1×3 board, clamp it to the workstation and use a forstner bit to drill the holes for the tubes. My tubes are just under 1.25″ in diameter, so I am using a 1.25″ forstner bit. There needs to be a little room between the hole sides and the tube.

Next, I cut my board to size. To make a bottom piece the exact same length, I like to tandem cut my pieces. (You can also use a stop block – or just measure, lol, but I’m all about efficiency here!) Using painter’s tape, match up the edges and sides as best you can and tape the uncut 1×3 board to the board with holes. The picture below is the smaller vertical pieces being tandem cut.

Once the top and bottom pieces are cut, cut the side pieces. Mine are 3″ high. The sides can be longer depending on the look you’re hoping to achieve.

Before assembling, lightly sand all face sides of each piece. I used sand paper wrapped around a round 1/2″ dowel to sand inside the holes.

Next, use clamps to line up the side, bottom, and top pieces. The goal is to make these perfectly flush. Using a nail gun (or hammer and finishing nails), carefully nail each piece in place.

The next step is optional. I like to fill up my nail holes with stainable wood filler so they aren’t as visible. Using your finger, or a small popsicle stick, push some filler into each hole. I immediately sand this off.

See what a difference that makes? Be sure to sand off the excess wood filler from the area around the nail hole, otherwise it will leave a yellow mark. Repeat this process for the top side.

Sand the entire thing one more time up to 220 grit. As a final step, I use my sander to gently knock off the corners and edges of the top and sides. This is a point of preference, skip if you prefer.

Wipe or vacuum the dust from the build, and prepare for a final finish. I’ll be using 2 coats of wood conditioner on mine, but any stain, poly, paint, or hard oil (or no finish at all) is an option. If using stain or poly, please read and follow the directions on the can!

Allow the racks to dry, then add tubes, water, and plants! These make great gifts. Happy building!