This post will show you how to add drawers, supports, and a top to a custom cabinet build. See parts 1 and 2 for a tutorial on building the frame and drawer boxes.
Ready to put the finishing touches on the rolling cabinet? I am! Let’s finish it up today.
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For part 3 I am using:
This post will be broken into 3 parts:
- Adding drawer fronts
- Adding supports
- Adding a top
Adding drawer fronts
The first step in drawer fronts is determining how big the drawer front needs to be. Traditional overlay drawers have a 1/8″ reveal on all sides, and also in between each drawer.
I am using this simple formula for these overlay drawers:
Drawer front width = width of cabinet frame – 1/4″ (blue dotted line)
Drawer front height = drawer box front – 1/4″ (red dotted line)
Don’t mind my drawings, lol. A simple drawing was the easiest way to explain this for all the visual learners, but I’m not the artist of the family!
You’ll notice on the bottom drawer, I extended the front measurement all the way to the base of the cabinet. My goal is to cover that plywood base so the only thing you see are the drawers. Subsequent drawers will be measured from the drawer base to the next drawer base up, and then subtract 1/4″ for the reveal. Drawer fronts will mount flush with the drawer base.
After cutting the first drawer front, take some clamps and position it on the front of the drawer box. I am using a stack of scrap wood to hold my drawer front to the height I need it.
Once the drawer front is level and in position, use 2 screws, one on each side, to attach the drawer front from the inside of the drawer. Go ahead and remove the clamps, test the drawer, adjust as needed, check for level, and then drive at least 2 more screws.
Which screws to use??? Pick a screw that is smaller than the depth of both plywood layers. For example, if the drawer box and front are both 3/4″ (1.5″ total), use a screw 1.25″ long. I am using kreg screws, because I have 8 million of them, and they self start. Cabinet screws are a great choice as well, and also self start. Self starting or tapping means the screw is sharp enough to tap its own hole in the wood, and therefore is easier to insert.
There should be at least 2 screws on each side of the drawer at this point. The drawer pull will also go through both layers of plywood and provide additional reinforcement.
Now, repeat this process for the next drawer.
When placing the drawer front on subsequent drawers, use a consistent spacing method. I am using my square as a spacer, since it’s about 1/8″ thick. Repeat the process as before, lining up the drawer sides, checking for level, and then place screws to secure.
Note: pull the bottom drawer out slightly so the top drawer is supported but the inside of the drawer can be reached to install screws.
Continue with the other 2 drawers. For the top drawer, make sure to leave a 1/8″ space between the drawer front and the top of the cabinet, so that the drawer can still slide open after the top is installed.
If you’re using one sheet of plywood for the drawer fronts, you can get real fancy and line up the grain, like in this picture, to instantly wow your friends and family, lol. And let’s be honest, a good grain line up just looks nice!
Installing the cabinet supports
Once the drawers are finished (minus hardware), the frame will need supports for the cabinet top. These supports can be made from strips of plywood about 3.5-4″ wide, or a scrap 1×4 board. These will not be visible in the finished product. If using wood scraps, make sure the thickness of these supports will not interfere with the function of the top drawer (for example, if you use a 2×4 make sure the drawer will still open and you can reach within it without interference.)
To measure for the supports:
Cabinet width (outside edges) – width of plywood (3/4″x2) = support width
As a side note, measuring the inside span of the cabinet is also fine – I find it easier to read the tape measure when it’s resting on something vs running into something. Do what works for you!
There will be 2 supports, one in the front and one in the back. Drill pocket holes, 2 on each end, and attach flush with the top of the cabinet sides. Use a speed square to make sure all corners are at 90 degrees and square.
Adding a top
For the top, I will be using the same 3/4″ birch plywood I’ve used for the rest of the cabinet. If the cabinet was living in my home, I would edge band the plywood the drawer boxes, and maybe add some molding to the front of the drawers to dress them up. For now, I will edge band around the top edges only.
If you’ve never used edge banding before, you can check out my edge banding tutorial here.
For a secure and stable top, I recommend using material at least 3/4″ thick. There are many options for the top, including mdf, gluing 1x or 2x boards together, plywood, concrete, laminate. Use the best option for your aesthetic, the function of the cabinet, and budget.
The top of the cabinet will have a slight overhang, about 1/2″ on each side, and an inch in the front. Cut the top out of the preferred material. I am edge banding the top, because I will be bothered by the edges if I don’t for the rest of time lol. Once the top is ready for installation, measure and place it, then use screws to attach the top through the top supports. Make sure the screw is not going to poke through the top.
This is looking up into the cabinet – there are 2 screws on each side to secure the top.
If I was finishing this with paint, stain, or poly, now would be the time to do that. I will be leaving my wood bare since this is for the garage.
Finally, add drawer hardware. I will be using the kreg cabinet hardware jig to install mine, centered on the cabinet face. First, find the center mark on the drawer face and mark with a speed square.
Then, use the jig, centered on the line you just drew, to drill holes for the hardware.
Install the drawer pulls or knobs. With that last step, this beautiful cabinet is finished and ready to store tools, accessories, and provide ample storage for my woodworking supplies. Happy building!